Jeongdong Theater's MISO Baebijang-jeon

On my way to the Jeongdong Theater behind the Deoksugung (Deoksu Palace), I chanced upon the Changing of the Guards ceremony, which is a colorful mini-parade of Korean soldiers in their traditional costumes. I passed by a donut shop to get a drink near the area before I headed to the venue.

                                   (My MISO ticket courtesy of the 
                         Korea Tourism Organization)

The colorful ceremony was actually a prelude to what I was about to watch at the Jeongdong Theater. The soldiers were in their colorful traditional costumes, and so were the actors in the show.  

MISO is a 70-minute, non-verbal performance telling the story of a government secretary named Bae Geol-deok-swe during the Choseon Dynasty. He was reputed to be faithful and loyal to his wife, and was sent to a post in Jeju Island, only to give in to the seduction of Ae-rang, the prettiest woman on the island, who also happened to be....married. 

                (The changing of the king's bodyguards ceremony)

             (He'll represent the Choseon Dynasty in archery 
                         at the 2014 Asian Games)

In short, MISO is a story of a government official who had extra-marital affairs (very common nowadays!), with his journey (to Jeju) and seduction (by Ae-rang) set into traditional music and dancing. Since the costumes were all traditional and the accompanying music was played using Korean traditional instruments, the early minutes of the show reminded me of the impressive performance I saw at the National Theater of Korea a year ago. 

                                                         (Jeongdong Theater)

For international tourists, watching MISO is a way to experience a non-verbal Korean performance showcasing colorful Korean hanboks and dance. 

I also appreciate the English, Chinese and Japanese translations on the screens on both sides of the stage, enabling non-Korean speaking audience to understand the story. Since it was a holiday, the audience not only included international tourists and foreigners, but also locals.

       (Screens with translation on both sides of the stage)

Though the choreography of the dances was simple (no acrobatics and leg-breaking splits here), the dancers and the props used were able to give life to the whole MISO story, although I would have wanted the main actor to have given more facial expressions. The only thing I could remember from his face was his overuse of BB cream.

It was actually Ae-rang, the seductress, and the courtesans who dazzled on stage. The dancer portraying Ae-rang was pretty as she should be, but so were the courtesans (although I could clearly see some chin implants from where I was seated). With their beautiful and colorful hanboks, intricate head-dress and their graceful dancing, these female actors were the ones who carried the show.

             (The cast dancing with some audience members 
                                      after the show)

After the show, the cast and the audience danced and posed for photographs at Jeongdong Theater's main entrance. I think this is the only performance where I saw the ensemble danced, not just mingle and posed for photos, with the audience. This was a very good way for the audience to remember the show, and a better way to even promote it. I wasn't in the mood to dance that afternoon. Ha-ha-ha!

So, if you want to see Ae-rang's dance of seduction, or want to get a glimpse of Jeju Island (watch out for the artistic Mt. Halla backdrop on the stage), or even how Secretary Bae threw up on a boat on his way to Jeju Island, you should drop by Jeongdong Theater for this show.

Jeongdong Theater is accessible from Exit 1 or Exit 12 of the City Hall Station.

Here's a link to the performance details:

http://www.jeongdong.or.kr/eng/index.do

Of Mango Desserts And This Pinoy's Favorite Philippine Snacks In Seoul!

                        (Sweet snacks from the Pinoy market)

Who doesn't like sweet snacks?

I grew up on an island which supplies sugar all over the world. The whole place is littered with sugarcane plantations and sugar centrals, one of which used to be the biggest refinery in Asia. And the smorgasbord of delicacies in the province is like a Who's Who of native sweets.  But I'm wondering. If one loves to eat meat, he or she is carnivorous. If one is a vegan, he or she is herbivorous. What if someone likes sweet? Is he sucronivorous? Ha-ha-ha!

And one place in Seoul where I usually get my native delicacy fix is at Hyewha-dong's Pinoy Market. And this weekend, I made a quick trip to get a few sweet snacks: sapin-sapin, suman, banana-cue and banana turon. As I said, just a few. Ha-ha-ha!  But as she was wrapping my snacks, the Filipina vendor had to ask me who's going to eat all these. Of course, I had to admit. My one word reply: "Ako!" ("Me!"). 

But during these Chuseok holidays, I discovered one more place in Seoul that offers another sweet kind of Philippine dessert: fresh mangoes!

When I visited my friend Kevin's home at the Bukchon Hanok Village near Anguk Station, I stumbled upon a cafe that caught my attention...Philippines Dessert Cafe! I was really surprised to see it along the way.  Could it be that I was meant to discover it? Hmm.  It must have been my sweet luck then!

Of all the places in Seoul, right in the neighborhood of my friend (Kev and his family actually live in an interesting 1930's hanok!), there is a cafe that serves floats and drinks made from the sweet Philippine mangoes! So, right after our lunch, I told my friend that we should try it.

I asked the lady at the counter (I presumed she owned the place) for the most popular item in her mango menu and I ordered it: the Snow Mango Float. It's a cupful of sweet mango slices and white cream, and sprinkled with confectioner's sugar to resemble 'snow'. And at the bottom of the cup is pureed mango. I have tried iced desserts in Seoul that had mango in it, but those varieties could not compare to this kind. This Snow Mango Float has the best ripe mango slices found in the Korean Peninsula! And they're from the Philippines, no less! Yellow, succulent, sweet, juicy and just perfectly ripened.

I asked the lady where in the Philippines their mangoes come from; they said it's from Carabao Island. I knew that Carabao Island has very good beaches, but I didn't know it has good mangoes, too!  And they're right here in my cupful of sweet mango delight! And if I'm not mistaken, I could see Carabao Island from my window seat on my plane ride from Manila to the Bacolod-Silay Airport! 

So, if you're craving for the best Philippine mangoes in your dessert, or just a cool mango juice drink, the Philippine Dessert Cafe in Gye-dong in the Jongno District may just satisfy your craving, too. 

From Anguk Station's Exit 3, walk straight for about 34 meters, then turn left. After that turn, there should be shops on your left and on your right, the Hyundai office complex parking lot. Walk straight for about 540 meters. Yes, you'll be walking towards the Jung-Ang High School made famous by that Korean drama that started it all, Winter Sonata. About 50 meters before the end of the road, which is actually the school's gate, the dessert cafe is on your right. You won't miss it. It's decorated with big umbrellas and colorful, summer colors! I told the owners that what's missing is a beach. Their decors are from Boracay Beach, by the way. 

So, if you're heading there this weekend, don't forget your swimwear. Ha-ha-ha!

The 2014 Korea In Motion Festival Is On!

The Korea In Motion kicks off again in Seoul!

Since 2012, the Korea Tourism Organization launches every September a campaign called Korea In Motion, KOINMO in short, to promote non-verbal performances, musicals, plays and concerts in Korea.

For three years now, these non-verbal performance and musicals in Seoul have been spotlighted by the KOINMO campaign, increasing the attendance to these shows by providing discounted tickets and attractive packages to locals and international tourists during the KOINMO period. This lets everyone enjoy these performances included in the campaign at a more affordable price.

In 2014, KOINMO period starts on September 3 and ends on October 5. On these dates, you can either visit the KOINMO booths at six (6) locations around Seoul, including Myeong-dong and the Korea Tourism Organization headquarters near the Cheonggye Stream.

Also, a caricature artist can sketch you and your friend for free if you buy your tickets from the KOINMO booth. The artist is available at a specific KOINMO booth on selected dates though.

And if you're around Myeong-dong these days, the KOINMO Showcase features numbers from selected shows performed by the actual actors and performers on an open-air stage right in the middle of Seoul's shopping centrale. These showcases are performed at 11AM and 1PM.

                    (The KOINMO team at the T2 booth at 
                           KTO will help you get your tickets!)


Here's a link to the KOINMO website:

http://www.kperformance.org/Index.asp

Although I already have my free performance tickets courtesy of the Korea Tourism Organization, I hope to see you at the performance venues just the same. 

And perhaps at KOINMO's opening ceremonies, too?

                (My performance tickets courtesy of KTO; 
   apples and chocolate-coated dried mangoes not included)

Why My Korean Friends Don't Like The Chuseok Family Reunions

(A KTX passenger heading to the province)

I thought family reunions are supposed to be fun. As one's siblings, cousins, uncles, aunts, and grandparents hardly see each other, Chuseok, or the Korean Thanksgiving, would be a happy occasion to see everyone in the family again. 👪

Well, that was what I thought.

Over the years, my Korean friends told me about their stories of their family reunions during Chuseok (or even during Seollal). Although they said that seeing their grandparents brings back childhood memories of growing up under their care, it's the 'Q&A portion' of the family reunion that's irritating and stressful. 😩

(Platforms at the Seoul Station for the KTX, 

the Korean high-speed trains)

Usually, it's their parents' cousins and a few relatives who would always throw those disliked questions. Here are some of them:

1. "When are you getting married? Do you have a boyfriend/girlfriend?"

2. "When are you getting a job? Your cousin now works at Samsung." 

3. "Why don't you have children?"

4. "Where do you study? Your cousin is studying at Yonsei." 📖

5. "Do you have a car?"🚘

Although I always get a laugh when my Korean friends recount to me their ordeal of trying to answer these questions with civility, poise, and a smile just like the remaining five competitive contestants at the annual Miss Universe beauty pageant, I also realize that this Q&A portion of the reunions adds pressure to anyone being asked those questions. It's the pressure to conform to what the family (and of course, the society) wants of you and how it wants you to live your life! 😓

No wonder Korea has one of the highest suicide rates in the world! Some people, especially the young, just couldn't handle the pressure. 😭

(KTX train is ready for boarding)

But one 'happy-ending' story I lately heard was from one of my best Korean friends. (Sorry, I can't write down his name. He's reading this!😄). 

He said his father didn't get much respect from his own family as his father's job was not as respectable as those of the rest of his siblings. So, my friend studied and worked hard to make good. He went to one of the top three universities in Korea (he's very smart), he finished his post-graduate studies overseas and he now works in the financial investment services industry.

And when he attended the last family reunion, he drove to his hometown with his wife and baby, and impressed everyone with his success....and with his new Mercedes Benz! His relatives' jaws must have dropped when he and his family stepped out of that German luxury car.

(Pre-Chuseok travelers at Seoul Station)

Well, I guess that's how you should show up at a family reunion. In style. 😎

So, if you're traveling to your hometown during these Chuseok holidays, I wish you're able to dodge some of those questions. And whether you're driving to your hometown in your new expensive car, or simply taking the KTX, do have a safe journey. 🚄

And try to have fun! It's the holidays, remember? And don't forget your presents for your grandparents! 👫

(A father and son awaiting their relatives to arrive 

at the KTX platforms of the Seoul Station)

A Pinoy At The Movies: Into The Storm

Having lived in the tropical country pummeled by typhoons several times a year, I guess I am used to heavy downpours and floods. Last year's Haiyan (local name, Yolanda), the strongest storm on record reminded us how devastating these weather systems can be.

Into The Storm does just that. Remind. Us.

It's a movie about a group of storm chasers just like Helen Hunt's movie, Twister, years ago. And just like in Twister, the storm chasers in this movie chase big storms and tornadoes. But here, it's the biggest tornado ever. And how did they show it? With huge special effects!

Yes. The special effects in this movie made chasing storms harrowing and scary. I have never seen a tornado in real life. Perhaps, the last movie where I saw a lot of tornadoes was in The Day After Tomorrow, that fictional climate disaster film from 2004. 

Into The Storm is like Twister plus The Day After Tomorrow plus High School Musical, without the singing, but a lot of melodramatics, adolescent rage and, as I said, huge special effects.  I think this is the only movie where I saw a huge tornado fireball! 

I hope those destructive weather systems and big scary tornadoes just stay in the movies. But it seems that with all the changing in our global climate, we may not have seen the worst yet.

I guess that's where we are all heading to. Into the storm.

Watch it.

Tae Keuk Dang: My Favorite Bakery In Town

I have never been impressed with these local chains of bakeries in Seoul. Since they seem to copy each other's products, once you've tasted one, you've tasted all. And their ridiculously priced cakes are just colored icing and glazed fruits, and nothing more. None of their cakes could match the cakes at home.

             (The view from the Hannam-dong crossing)

                             (This head...turns heads)

But there's this bakery in Seoul. It's actually a walking distance from my Hannam-dong neighborhood in the Yongsan District; it's just located on the other side of the mountain. Nam-san, that is, and on another district. This bakery is different from those copycat chains and has been baking for decades.

So, one weekend, when it wasn't that scorching outdoors, I took a hike, literally.

            (An exercise park next to the Hannam tennis courts)

                 (Going into the tunnel at the Yongsan-gu side 
                      and coming out at the Jung-gu side)

Although I could have just taken the Blue Bus 420 from the Hannam Bridge bus stop all the way to the Jangchung-dong bus stop next to the bakery, which would have taken less than ten minutes, I decided to walk so as to lose a few calories before I consume a lot more when I get there. And I could have taken that route along the National Theater of Korea and the Jangchung tennis courts, but that busy thoroughfare has narrow sidewalks with speeding buses and cars blowing their tailwinds to all pedestrians walking on the side. I find it scary!

Instead, I walked through the Beotigogae and Yaksu neighborhoods. I have passed these areas while riding a bus;  this time, I thought, I'd be able to see the area at street level.

                        (I crossed the border from Yongsan-gu to 
                                  the Jung-gu district)

                                          (Apartments on a hill)

Since it was a Sunday, there wasn't much going on in these neighborhoods. From Hannam-dong, my route led me through the main highway, the Hannam tennis courts, Beotigogae Station until the Yaksu Station. From there, a left turn towards the direction of the Dongkuk University Station. 

Small shops, family-owned restaurants, small groceries, a motel next to a church, apartment buildings and a few situated on a hill completed the make-up of the neighborhood. A typical residential village in Seoul.

I forgot how long it took me to reach my destination. With all the walking and taking photographs, it must have been less than an hour. But when I did reach its location, its building looked ordinary and unassuming. Maybe because it's been there for a long time and that its reputation doesn't need those fancy entrances or flashing lights on its doors.

Tae Geuk Dang, the bakery, was established in 1946. That's even before the Korean War. I wonder how many thousands of customers have enjoyed its bread and other baked goodies since.

              (The Yellow Namsan bus en route to NSeoul Tower)

                      (Traffic enforcers at the Yaksu intersection)

            (Jangchung Gymnasium undergoing renovation)

But that day, 68 years since it opened, I was there for something it's really famous for: ice cream sandwiches!

And in this hot weather, I wasn't the only one lining up to get those cold goodies. Taekeukdang has two kinds of sandwiches, actually. The rectangular ice cream wafer is W1,500 each; the round one sells for W2,000 each. Of course, I got both to eat on the spot and bought a few more to bring home!

                (The intersection next to Dongguk University)

                                    (A church with a coffee shop)

                                 (The bakery's building)

The bakery has a seating area with tables for those who want coffee with their bread or patpingsu, or those who simply want to enjoy their ice cream. Their interiors are made of wood and really looked vintage. They have an 'old Seoul' atmosphere to it, the one you cannot find in any new fancy bakery-slash-cafe, where the mark-up for an overpriced loaf of bread must have included the new cushioned sofa or the white-painted interiors. Ha-ha-ha!

I promised myself to go back again to Taekeukdang. Perhaps, not on foot, but on a bus or through subway. Other than their sandwich ice cream, I will definitely bring home some of their other baked products. I'm actually eyeing that raisin bread. 

                                         (Tae Keuk Dang entrance)

                        (Its interiors look more inviting than any 
                                   fancy bakery out there)

                      (Their bestsellers in the freezer)

By the way, the almond bread I got from Taekeukdang was the snack I brought with me to the Beatification Mass. 

       (Re-stocking their easily sold out ice cream sandwiches)

Taekeukdang is just right outside Exit 2 of the Dongkuk University Station of Line No. 3, and is actually a couple of bus stops from the Dongdaemun Culture and History Park area.

                (Enjoying their ice cream sandwiches on the spot!)

                    (All the walking was definitely worth it!)