A Quiet Autumn Stroll @ Seoul's Seonjeongneung

There are only a few, real quiet spaces in Seoul. You'll never find serenity in Myeongdong, not even inside the Myeongdong Cathedral, which is supposed to be a place of worship. When there's a wedding at the cathedral, the attendees turn it into a noisy auditorium.

You'll never find a quiet spot inside a coffee shop. There will always be a bunch of ajummas gossiping next to you, or Korean girls trying to outtalk each other.

And I bet, you won't even find peace in your own home. The ajussi selling vegetables will blast his loudspeaker from his truck to wake you up and buy his tomatoes or potatoes.

Even up on a mountain, a group of drunk ajussis, with their bottles of soju, will spoil your meditation.

But there are a few spots in Seoul where I am sure you can actually find peace and quiet. How? Because these are places where the occupants are literally resting in peace.

One is the Seoul National Cemetery near Dongjak Station in Seoul's Dongjak District; it's the resting place of heroes, martyrs and honored citizens. Picnics are prohibited here. On a cool autumn day, you can just stroll around the cemetery amidst the changing colors of the foliage. In spring, this place is even less crowded compared to Yeouido, if you want to see some cherry blossoms. Entrance is free. For the living, that is.

Another one in the middle of the city is a royal resting place: the Seongjeongneung in the Gangnam District that consists of two royal tombs.

Seolleung is the royal tomb of the 9th King Seongjong of the Joseon Dynasty and his second wife, Queen Jeonghyeon.

Jeongneung, on the other hand, is the tomb of the 11th King Jungjong, also of the Joseon Dynasty.

This is actually a small forest right in the middle of a busy district, and constructing tall apartment and office buildings around the site is prohibited because Seongjeongneung is both a cultural heritage site and UN Heritage Site. Unlike the rest of Seoul, you won't see shadows of tall buildings encroaching on the perimeter.

What you'll see are trails around and a  forest within, and what you'll hear are silence and the occasional singing of the birds. During weekdays, you'd see office people stretching their legs around the site, and on weekends, you'd see couples and families walking around the woods.  

   (The marker for the 500-year old gingko tree)

       (That huge trunk is at least 500 years old)

There's also a 'natural treasure' inside the Seongjeongneung. It's probably the tallest gingko tree I have seen in Seoul. Why it has grown this tall? Because it's at least 500 years old! And if you're there at the right day if the year, it should be in its full autumn yellow glory! There's a marker next to it. This tree is just a few minutes from the entrance. If you're facing the entrance, it's on your right. Since it's very tall, you can actually see it from afar.

(A young couple next to a very old natural treasure)

         (The oldest gingko tree towers above 
                            everything else)

The nearest subway station to the entrance of Seonjeongneung is Seolleung Station. About 260 meters from Exit 8, you'll see the concrete walls surrounding the tomb. Turn right and trace the walls for about 150 meters until you'll see the entrance. 

A small fee of KRW 1,000 is required for a visit, and during autumn and winter, it's open from 6:30AM until 9PM.

But if you want to be a regular visitor, you can also purchase monthly and annual access passes.

So, if you want to get away from all the chaos and noise of the city, Seongjeongneung should be a new getaway for you.

The Yellow Slick Road...and Namsan!

It has been a rained out weekend. I wasn't even been able to spend a minute on the tennis court! 

After Marlu and I walked in the rain through Cheonggye Stream last Friday night to check out the Seoul lantern exhibition, we thought the weather would turn out to be better the next day. Marlu and her husband were in Seoul for a few days, and they deserved an enjoyable weather to welcome them to another Korean autumn. But sadly, the whole weekend was all about chilly temperatures and wet roads.

But as we start a new week, it's good to see this morning that the sun is out (although temporarily), the umbrellas are stowed away, and the fall colors of yellow and orange are back on center stage, brightening up the roads in my neighborhood, and Namsan, too! 

The Philippine Parol @ The Seoul Lantern Exhibition

Two years back, I spotted a Philippine Christmas tree right in the middle of the Cheonggye Stream in Seoul, South Korea. It was one of the most popular lanterns of the Seoul Lantern Exhibition as couples and families wanted to pose for pictures and selfies right in front of the huge Christmas tree.

And at this year's edition of the Seoul Lantern Exhibition that's ongoing at the Cheonggye Stream, I spotted another 'parol', a Philippine Christmas lantern!

Although Christmas Day is about 6 weeks away, in the Philippines, Christmas trees and Christmas carols may be seen and heard sooner than that!

That must be a reason why, right at the Cheonggye Stream, the Philippines has a representative lantern that's up, lighted and twinkling! 

(The crowd with their umbrellas in front of the parol)

These three huge circular parols, standing on three columns decorated with green, red and yellow capiz shells forming stars and parols themselves, are one of the most popular attractions of the exhibition.

Even though it was raining last night at the opening of the Seoul Lantern Exhibition, there were still crowds pausing in front of the parols for photos and selfies.

If you're in Seoul and have time at night to drop by the Cheonggye Stream, the lanterns light up starting at 5PM every night until November 22. And the Philippine parols are installed near the Samil-gyo (Samil bridge), where there's an entrance to the exhibition.

Merry Christmas! I guess. Ha-ha-ha!

Philippine History: Cinco de Noviembre, The Successful Negros Revolution Against Spain

        (Silay City's Cinco de Noviembre monument)

A few years ago, I walked the streets of Madrid in Spain with a bag made of 'katsa' (muslin cloth) slinging over my right shoulder. I bought the muslin bag from the Negros Showroom in Bacolod City in my home province of Negros Occidental in the Philippines. It had an embroidered Philippine Flag with "1898" on it and the words "Republica Cantonal de Negros". 

I wasn't surprised that, during that trip, I caught a few locals staring at it, especially when I took the subway en route to visit the Islas Filipinas Subway Station (yes, a subway station was named after the Philippine Islands!) in the Chamberi District of Madrid. I proudly slung it over my shoulder, safely containing my Madrid map, iPad, camera, water, and my bocadillo de jamon.

I wondered whether some Spaniards recognized the Philippine flag and probably thought that this Asian-looking guy riding the subway was from one of their former colonies. 😁

If they thought so, they were right! ¡Es verdad!😎

       (An old canon guards the monument)

Today, November 5, the Negros Province in the Philippines commemorates the successful revolution against Spain 125 years ago.

The revolt started on November 5, 1898, and peacefully ended the next day with the Spanish authorities surrendering to the revolutionary forces led by General Aniceto Lacson (from Talisay), General Juan Araneta (from Bago), Leandro Locsin, Simeon Lizares, Jose Montilla, and Julio Diaz.

That day, the ingenious generals led their soldiers carrying, take note, rifles carved from nipa and dragging canons that were actually bamboo mats colored black. They tried to trick the Spaniards held out at the San Diego Cathedral, making the enemies think that they were fully armed and ready for battle.

Their creativity paid off! The Spanish soldiers led by Col. Isidro Castro surrendered! 😊

This day in Philippine history was more theatrical than military! 😁

In the city of Silay, Negros Occidental, the memorial for Cinco de Noviembre was constructed to remind everyone of one of the most important dates in the Province's history. The spot was the location of an old pharmacy where the local revolutionaries secretly met to plot the uprising. Immortalized are the names of the brave local leaders who led the revolt.

After the successful revolution, the Negrenses set up its own government. But the independence was short-lived though, as the GI Joes took over the island unopposed just three months after.

(This elegant white house across the Cinco de Noviembre monument is the Teodoro Morada 

ancestral home.)

So, if you're passing by Silay City in Negros Occidental, do drop by at my favorite restaurant in Silay, El Ideal restaurant (read blog here), which also serves my mom's favorite fresh lumpia! Their menus are also available at the Kaon Ta! food fair held during Silay's charter anniversary days (read blog here). 

Walk a few meters south of the monument along the Cinco de Noviembre Street is the Balay Negrense where Kaon Ta! is held (read blog here).

It's November 5 and this is our history lesson for today. 😍

(My all-purpose, revolutionary 'katsa' bag that 

roamed with me around Spain. Luckily, 

I wasn't arrested by any guardia civil. 😀)

Living in Seoul: Watch Out Before Crossing The Street!

Yes, it's always a good precaution. Before crossing the street, watch out for cars, taxis, buses and motorcycle drivers who think the traffic lights are just a suggestion. There are Korean drivers out there who just don't care about the crossing pedestrians.

I know somebody who got run over by a motorbike even as she was walking ON the sidewalk!  I also witnessed a few times cars just speeding through the pedestrian lane when it was already time for people to cross!

And I wasn't surprised to see an aftermath of an actual accident the other night near Myeongdong. The guy sitting on the road must have been a victim, while the taxi driver looked on as they waited for the police to arrive. I guess he was still lucky. 

Years ago, during my tour on Seonyudo Island in the North Jeolla Province, I was almost run over by a van! Twice that day! I then swore not to ride a bike in Korea ever! It's not worth it. 

Those Korean drivers, including the ajummas, don't seem to care about road safety. A few years back, a truck driver actually ran over a group of professional cyclists training for a race. The truck driver was said to have been watching Korean drama on his smartphone while driving, and didn't see the cyclists. Some of the cyclists died...on the spot!

I don't drive; I am happy and contented being a passenger and a pedestrian. And if I want to remain that way, I should always watch out...before crossing the street.

Stay safe, everyone!

Still Got The Halloween Hangover?

        (A big bumble bee (in yellow) on the train; it got off at Noksapyeong Station)

Yes, for most of us who went out to party last Saturday night, on Hallow's Eve, there must have been a Halloween hangover the day after.

But I am sure for those who went out to party, it was worth it!

On my way to the Yongsan District from Mapo after our Pinoy Halloween party at our friends Wendy and Manny's place near the World Cup Stadium area, I took the subway and decided to get off at the Itaewon Station.

Even during my subway ride, I already saw a lot of people wearing costumes and painted faces. There was even a guy wearing a big yellow, bumble bee costume, who gamely posed with fellow passengers for a photo. He and another guy wearing a lady bug costume got off at Noksapyeong Station. I guess their party was around Haebangchon or Gyeonggidan.

But what surprised me was the crowd. When I got off at Itaewon Station, the stairs and escalator going up were full of merry-makers that made it look like it was the biggest crowd I have ever seen alighting at this station in all the years I have lived in Seoul! I couldn't even compare the crowds that attended the Itaewon's global festival a few weekends back. I have only seen this kind of a huge crowd during the Yeouido fireworks festival cramming the Saetgang Station on my way home!

And when I finally got out of the Itaewon Station, voila! Thousands filled up the sidewalks and the entrances to the bars along the main road.

Some people made an effort to really dress up for Halloween, while some just had a painted face and some boring head-piece, which made me wonder: it could have been scarier if some people, with their freshly sutured facial wounds, walked around Itaewon straight out from plastic surgery clinics. Ha-ha-ha!

Those people must have gone home the next morning upon sunrise. But with these huge crowds, I was not exactly sure if those bars and clubs were able to accommodate everyone. Perhaps, they only let in people who were wearing interesting costumes?

And unless you were able to catch the last train out of Itaewon Station, or the last bus passing through the main road that night, I doubt whether you would have been able to catch a cab with all those drunk passengers competing for one.

So, if you were there last Saturday night in Itaewon, how was your Halloween hangover?

              (Halloween partygoers on scooters)